New Jersey Restaurant Review

Casa Bellisima
269 Newton-Sparta Road
Andover, Sussex County, New Jersey
(973) 579-7711

By The Artful Diner
Special to nj.com
January 17, 2005

Open since the latter part of July 2004, Casa Bellisima's location sandwiches it between some pretty heady competition: Andre's and Bula in nearby Newton and Zoe's by the Lake just a short hop away in Sparta. Heavy culinary hitters not withstanding, this Italian eatery is alive and well and packing them in. Indeed, since the restaurant only accepts reservations for parties of six or more, we were warned by folks at a local B & B to arrive between 5:30 p.m. and 6:00 p.m. or expect to wait.

The exterior of Casa Bellisima, which means "Beautiful House," is stately and attractive, but the interior is even more inviting. Handsome wall sconces and matching chandeliers provide soft, subdued lighting and are tastefully complemented by framed prints, patterned carpeting, comfortably cushioned chairs, and well-spaced tables. There are two dining rooms from which to choose: a spacious area for nonsmokers and a smaller room adjacent to the cozy bar where puffing is permitted.

There is a very nice feel about this establishment; the vibes are classy and sophisticated. Without question, proprietors Dina and Eddie Xhudlo -- she handles the front of the house, he holds forth in the kitchen -- have invested a great deal of time and thought (and money) to make certain that the ambiance pushes all the right buttons. In point of fact, Ms. Xhudlo is solely responsible for the restaurant's charming decorative scheme... So naturally one would expect the caliber of Mr. Xhudlo's cuisine to match the quality of his wife's décor... Regretfully, however, this is not the case.

The menu rounds up all the usual suspects -- mussels marinara ($5.95), antipasto ($6.95), fried calamari ($7.95), pasta fagioli ($3.95), fettuccine Alfredo ($9.95), rigatoni with pink vodka cream sauce ($9.95), veal saltimbocca ($14.95), shrimp fra diavolo over linguine ($15.95) -- as well as appropriating several decidedly UNItalian oddities: paella for two ($42.95), châteaubriand for two ($37.95), and lobster tails thermidor (market price). One glance at this bill of fare and any red-blooded American foodie's suspicions immediately switch into overdrive. Not only is the kitchen playing it close to the vest but hedging its bets as well. Still... hope springs eternal...

Bread imported from off campus -- tantalizingly crusty and richly textured -- is a very good sign... rock hard pellets of foil-wrapped butter, on the other hand, are not. In such environs, one would expect herb-infused olive oil for dipping.

And appetizers precipitate the same ambivalence... Eggplant rollatini ($5.95) may be indigenous to most Neapolitan nirvanas, but here it appears to be the object of special care. The eggplant is sautéed just right, the ricotta based filling is wonderfully creamy, and the rich marinara is intensely flavorful and appropriately acidic. Obversely, the clams prepared oreganato ($6.95) are successfully sequestered beneath a heavy, soggy breading and surrounded by an overly viscous sauce.

Salads -- Caesar ($4.95), arugula ($4.95), and spinach ($4.95) -- make excellent opening moves. But most diners will probably ignore their provocative personalities, however ebullient they may be, as complimentary greenery is included with a majority of the main courses. And this is something of a tragedy, as the house salad -- chopped iceberg lettuce, chunk of yellow tomato, and overly astringent Italian dressing -- is generic at best.

But entrées tell the real story... There are various methods of evaluating Italian cookery, but I have always found veal to be a pretty good indicator, not only of the chef's capabilities, but also of a restaurant's overall commitment to excellence. Applying this litmus test, Casa Bellisima fails with flying colors. If not the poorest excuse for veal it has ever been my displeasure to ingest, it certainly places in a photo finish. The tip-off, of course, is the texture, which is vaguely suggestive of an unholy amalgam of Styrofoam and wet cardboard. Flavor is nonexistent.

Veal dishes come in many guises -- one is almost tempted to say TOO many, all incredibly gussied up, undoubtedly in an attempt to disguise the inferior quality of the meat -- but the particular culprit in my case was the "Veal Caruso" ($13.95) topped with eggplant, mozzarella, and fresh tomato slices in a white wine sauce. In addition to the textural problem noted immediately above, the sauce sported a decidedly orange hue, perhaps a result of the commingling of tomato slices; but the result was still significantly less than pleasing to the eye.

The spinach-crusted filet of sole ($14.95) also falls short. The sautéed filet does boast a light crust... which is then topped with spinach... which is then topped with shiitake mushrooms... which is then topped with chopped tomatoes... which ultimately renders the original crust a mushy mess. When one finally arrives at the heart of the matter, it is mealy and tasteless.

Chicken may strike you as altogether too pedestrian, but it is surely the lesser of the possible gastronomic evils likely to be encountered here. And the chicken Parmesan ($12.95) is undoubtedly the way to go, as it comes swimming in a very good marinara, which also adorns the aforementioned eggplant rollatini and the penne pasta that accompanies many of the main courses. And this, in turn, makes a number of pasta dishes recommendable... Try the penne arrabbiata ($9.95) -- garlic, hot peppers, and mushroom/basil marinara -- or the rigatoni bolognese ($9.95) spruced up with a homemade meat sauce and touch of cream.

Desserts ($4.95), none of which are made in house, are strictly standard issue. The Oreo cream tart sports a decidedly clammy crust, the almond cream tart tastes artificial in extremis, and the cheesecake and carrot cake are also nothing to write home about. Espresso ($2.50) is lukewarm and weak.

Like the cuisine, the service can be problematic. During one visit, the young woman who attended our table spoke with such a thick accent -- we subsequently learned that she hailed from Poland -- that we could barely understand her recitation of the daily specials. She also seemed quite inexperienced, traipsing out with salads before we had completed our appetizers. Her biggest faux pas, however, was her perfume... Even when ensconced in the nether regions of the kitchen, her malodorous bouquet permeated the dining area. The scent was simply overpowering.

Casa Bellisima does have a great deal of potential. As of this writing, however, the restaurant hides it well. The food here is simply not up to the mark; consider the questionable character of the veal as People's Exhibit A. This eatery could be a real winner... but infinitely more attention needs to be paid to the quality of the cuisine and the service.

Cuisine: Italian
Hours: Tues - Thurs, 11:30 a.m. - 10:00 p.m.; Fri, 11:30 a.m. - 10:30 p.m.; Sat, 1:30 p.m. - 10:30 p.m.; Sun, 1:30 p.m. - 9:30 p.m.; CLOSED MONDAY
Credit Cards: All major
Attire: Casual
Smoking: Separate nonsmoking section
Reservations: Accepted for parties of six or more only
Parking: Onsite
Alcohol: License
Price: Moderate
Handicapped Accessible: Yes
Web Site: www.casabellisima.com

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