Cabo's Corner Bistro
2053 West Broad Street
Richmond, Virginia
(804) 355-1144

cabosbistro.com

Since Cabo's boasts a bustling bar scene (see photo) and a plethoric variety of live music, I was somewhat skeptical with regard to the quality of the cuisine... But I freely admit that I was pleasantly surprised, as executive chef Kevin Wilken and sous chef Reece Roberts do a splendid job.

The casually attractive dining room replete with framed, bistro-style posters is separate from the bar/lounge area, but also properly situated so that you may revel in the sounds of cool jazz without subjecting your ears to the ravages of noise pollution or your lungs to the poisonous effects of second-hand cigarette smoke. So settle back comfortably and take a gander at the compact international wine list...

By the glass, you discover such attractive options as Artesa Sauvignon Blanc from the Napa Valley ($8.00), Seghesia Zinfandel from Sonoma ($8.00), and a very nice Penfold's Thomas Hyland Shiraz from Australia ($8.00). Bottles include the ever-reliable Sonoma Cutrer "Russian River Ranches" Chardonnay ($29.00), Sterling Cabernet Sauvignon ($37.00), Trimbach Riesling from the Alsatian region of France ($27.00), and an elegant Deloach Pinot Noir ($30.00).

The seasonally changing menu offers up sophisticated bistro fare with a cosmopolitan flair. You may, for example, start things off on an exotic note with the vegetable spring rolls ($7.00) — crispy, golden brown vertical towers accompanied by an incomparable rice wine vinegar ginger soy sauce — or the ahi tuna and jumbo lump crab roll embellished with jalapeño salsa ($14.00). Equally tempting are the prosciutto-wrapped diver scallops with fresh gazpacho purée & cilantro oil ($10.00) and grilled jumbo shrimp with tropical fruit salsa & avocado mousse ($12.00).

Salads also have a great deal to offer, and all are beautifully presented... The baby spinach salad ($9.00) is artistically dressed with roasted beets, braised artichokes, applewood smoked bacon, and encircled by a marvelous Maytag bleu cheese vinaigrette ($9.00). The classic Caesar ($8.00) incorporates hearts of romaine and is garnished with herb crostini, fresh Parmesan, and anchovy filets; the mixed organic greens are spruced up with slices of English cucumber, pickled onion, oven-roasted tomatoes, and imbued with a zesty Dijon mustard/balsamic vinaigrette.

Like their predecessors, entrées offer intriguing possibilities. Plump pan-seared jumbo scallops ($24.00) are arranged around an epicenter of Parmesan cheese risotto topped with sautéed asparagus and tomato confit. The consummating touch is a totally beguiling truffle vinaigrette. Herb/garlic marinated shrimp ($22.00) are gently sautéed and placed on a seabed of linguine adorned with tomato concassé, melted leeks, capers, country ham, baby spinach, and finished with a white wine garlic sauce. Other treasures from the sea include pan-seared Chilean sea bass with herb-infused orzo ($24.00) and tri-color peppercorn-crusted yellowfin tuna swimming in a red wine reduction ($24.00).

Carnivores may indulge in a velvety beef tenderloin accompanied by horseradish-infused roasted fingerling potatoes and port wine jus ($31.00), veal tenderloin with rosemary-infused Anson Mills polenta ($27.00), or benchmark rack of lamb in the distinguished company of parsley root purée, vegetable ragoût, and thyme-infused demi-glace ($28.00)... Even the more pedestrian pan-seared free-range chicken ($20.00) is a moist and succulent revelation.

Desserts ($6.00), courtesy of Chef Roberts, continue the kitchen's good work. Recently sampled were a rich, creamy white chocolate cheesecake garnished with chilled peach chutney & raspberry coulis, and decadent chocolate Napoleon — layers of white and dark chocolate mousse — served with a honey almond tuile and fresh berries. Also available are Kahlua crème brûlée and chocolate génoise.

When you're feeling both musically and gastronomically inclined, Cabo's Corner Bistro should be number one on your dining agenda.

The Artful Diner
September 2004

The Artful Diner Diner is a freelance food writer who writes restaurant reviews for nj.com. His latest review can be seen on his nj.com weblog at http://blog.nj.com/artful_diner/. An archive of past reviews for nj.com as well as reviews for restaurants around the country and the world can be found on this Web site at http://www.artfuldiner.com/reviews .

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