Dining in Deutschland

The Best and/or The Rest
Once Again, Presented in Order of Preference

BURG SCHNELLENBERG, 57439 Attendorn/Sauerland
This inviting hotel/restaurant typifies the rustic elegance that is so characteristic of fine German dining. Here you find vaulted ceilings, a plethoric variety of stags' horns, huge crackling fireplace, crisp white napery, and friendly yet extremely competent service.

Begin with a glass of bone dry sherry or, perhaps, a German kir, a felicitous commingling of Champagne and homemade Schenellenberger elderberry juice. Both are guaranteed to perk up your appetite for the wonderful things to come.

A first-rate starter is the double consommé of beef. The broth is perfectly clear and light in color but intensely flavorful. If you enjoy soups, but appreciate something a bit heartier, the kale soup with smoked sausage is just the ticket. It is a heady combo of assertively seasoned finely chopped kale, onions, potatoes, sprinkling of mustard seeds, and liberal bestowal of chunks of semi-spicy sausage.

If you prefer salads, the lamb's lettuce and assorted greens tossed with a fabulous potato vinaigrette, bacon morsels, and crispy croutons is a superb opening move. . . as is the sumptuous terrine of wood pigeon. It is accompanied by a creamy apple-celery salad in ramekins of endive and garnished with greenery. The apple-celery concoction is very rich, but a perfect counterpoint to the terrine and acidic vinaigrette in the greens.

We dined here on two successive nights, our first two in Germany. On our first evening, my wife chose the moist and tender filet of pork. Thick slices are surrounded by a sea of creamy peppercorn sauce enhanced with mango. Sides of mango and potato dumplings are presented in diminutive silver serving dishes. The broccoli florets were dressed with just a touch of butter and sprinkling of slivered almonds. The homemade potato dumplings are exquisite of taste and ethereal of texture. Perch-pike is a favorite of the German table, and it is inevitably perfectly prepared and beautifully presented. . . and this occasion was certainly no exception. Three lightly floured filets are set on a bed of sautéed spinach and surrounded by a pool of Champagne sauce. A side of yellow and spinach noodles completes the delicious scenario.

A 1993 Würzburger Pfaffenburg from the Franken region is a perfect complement for both the fish and the pork.

On our second evening, we elected more robust main courses. The rump steak is coated with an ingratiating mixture of mustard and horseradish and topped with a delicate crêpe. Braised cabbage and beautifully browned potato croquettes provide the accompaniment. My wife opted for the superlative breast of roasted free-range goose (plus drumstick) in the company of airy potato dumplings and benchmark red cabbage.

The wine: a 2000 an excitingly fruity Neuenahrer Schieferlay Spätburgunder from H.J. Kreuzberg.

We also enjoyed several top-notch desserts: a crêpe of cinnamon plums and slices of caramelized pears. Both were embellished with a smattering of seasonal fruits and dots of fresh whipped cream. The former was spruced up with a dollop of bourbon vanilla ice cream, the latter, with praline ice cream.

Not only is Burg Schnellenberg an outstanding restaurant but a homey, romantic hotel as well. We spent two glorious nights in one of the establishment's cozy "tower" rooms, consisting of a sitting area and spiral staircase leading to spacious bedroom and luxurious bath replete with marble accoutrements, beautiful glass-enclosed stall shower and huge soaking tub. A marvelous experience!

LANDHAUS EGGERT, Zur Haskenau 81, Handorf/Munster
Located in a suburb of the city of Münster, this hotel/restaurant is part of the omnipresent Ringhotel chain, so I was a bit dubious at first. However, the location alone is enough to recommend this charming eatery, as it is situated on a cul-de-sac in the middle of a dense forest.

The interior is disappointingly modern, both the cozy bar/lounge and the main dining room . . . but the "chimney room" is wonderfully rustic and boasts an open fireplace, timbered ceiling, and scant six tables. This room must be reserved well in advance, especially on weekends. We only discovered the hotel in the middle of the afternoon, but, because it was a somewhat inhospitable rainy Friday, we managed to snare the primo table in front of the fireplace for that very evening.

Kale, a rather ungainly member of the cabbage family, is rarely seen on menus in America; it is, however, quite popular in Germany, as their chefs are adept at its preparation. And a beguiling appetizer of kale "Westphalian" is surely a delicious case in point. The kale is finely chopped, prepared with diced onions and pungent Westphalian ham, and served with roasted potatoes and chunks of sausage. This is hardly diet food, but it is incredibly tasty, and the allocations quite generous. Even a half portion would undoubtedly be sufficient for those with less hearty appetites.

The ravioli is another highly recommended starter. Two homemade squares of tender noodle dough are filled with creamed celery and set on a bed of diced breast of pheasant enveloped in a rich veal-based sauce.

Entrées are equally up to the mark. Three perfectly grilled dorado (mahi-mahi) filets are arranged on a generous mound of spinach, then crowned with a tiara of straw potatoes. The "3 little medallions of pork" is yet another winner. The medallions are wonderfully moist and tender, not the least bit dry, and are presented with a decadent square of scalloped potatoes and dollop of garlic-herb butter. A very nice mixed salad with sour cream dressing is offered on the side.

A shared dessert was one of the most unusual we encountered, but certainly one of the most memorable . . . Four pitted plums clothed in crispy pastry pockets are presented around an epicenter of homemade poppy seed ice cream in a sugar cookie basket. Exquisite!

The wine of the evening was an excellent 1999 Würzburger Stein from the Franken region.

This proved to be a most rewarding dining experience. Should you find yourself in the Münster area, it is well worth seeking out.

HOF ZUR LINDE, Handorfer Werseufer 1, Munster/Handorf
Located just a few miles from the city of Münster proper, this lovely restaurant/hotel has a great deal to recommend it. Indeed, my wife and I spent three very relaxing days here in a beautifully appointed and comfortable junior suite.

And while some of the accommodations sport a more modernistic décor, the dining facilities are decidedly rustic. Dark wood and timbered ceilings predominate, along with hanging Westphalian hams and sausages, while walls are adorned with spice mills and various hunting scenes and paraphernalia. The center of attention, however, is a huge "open" fireplace that dominates one of the dining areas.

The consommé with pumpkin essence makes a light and lovely starter. The bowl arrives with one sliced scallop at the center surrounded by a small pool of pumpkin purée. An intensely flavorful crystal clear broth is poured in by the waiter at table. You might also consider the mixed salad, an appetizing tangle of greens tossed with a light balsamic vinaigrette and adorned with moist and tender slices of breast of guinea fowl. Other possibilities include a filet of codfish in a marinade of peppers and mild garlic and luscious lamb filets with marinated vegetables.

Entrées also hold a number of exquisite treasures, and matters piscatorial take center stage. A single scallop is placed at the center of the plate and then surrounded by three pools of a green pea-caraway purée. The bivalve is perfectly seared, not at all rubbery, and the purée exhibits a rich green color and incredible depth of flavor. Equally appealing is a delightful combo of halibut and salmon. The former is presented horizontally, the latter, vertically, resting against a bed of mixed greens. Both are adorned with a cooked cabbage leaf and are surrounded by Jerusalem artichokes. Also highly recommended is the flaky filet of turbot embellished with cooked celery slices to resemble fish scales. A tasty tarragon sauce and creamy risotto complete this beautiful blending of colors and textures.

For the more carnivorous of nature, the saddle of young wild boar is an exceptional treat. Succulent medium-rare slices are fanned out and garnished with mushroom ravioli and a purée of fresh turnips. A complementary fig sauce added by our waitress proved the crowning touch.

When it comes to desserts, I find anything combined in any way, shape, or form with peanut butter virtually impossible to resist . . . and the mille-feuille of peanut butter mousse is certainly no exception. The decadent mousse is interspersed with discs of white chocolate and garnished with caramel ice cream. An extraordinary feast for those, like me, with an incurable sweet tooth.

This is an excellent restaurant and, while it is certainly a bit on the expensive side, entrée prices are pretty much in line with establishments of similar ilk. Just be advised that appetizers will cost you dearly. In some cases, tariffs for starters are as high as main courses in other eateries. Still, if you are looking for a special romantic evening, Hof zur Linde fills the bill nicely.

DAS KLEINE RESTAURANT, An der Untertrave 39, Lübeck
This is a most appealing eatery that is simple but sophisticated. True to its namesake, the restaurant is quite small, sporting just a few tables downstairs with a majority of accommodations in the cozy balcony overlooking the main floor. Exposed brick walls add a homey touch, as do beautifully photographed scenes of the city of Lübeck.

A tiny complimentary salad of baby arugula tossed with a superb balsamic vinaigrette is included with your meal, but appetizers are certainly not to be overlooked. A luscious seafood cocktail - baby shrimp, mussels, octopus, and calamari - is invigorated with a delicious dill sauce and garnished with a caper berry and slice of lemon. An excellent starter. Ditto the tomato gratinée, three small tomato halves sprinkled with diced sautéed onions and topped with Gruyere cheese.

Entrées here are quite robust in nature. My wife opted for the leg of lamb, which is served on the bone. Not a particularly subtle presentation but extremely tasty nonetheless. It is served with a diminutive rösti potato and artistically cut array of crunchy vegetables. My filet of beef, however, was somewhat less successful. Ordered medium rare and topped with two crisscrossed bacon slices, the meat was so thick that it could not possibly be cooked properly. Indeed, the inside was almost raw.

The two desserts available were chocolate mousse and a lemon tart. We choose the tart, which was good but not exceptional. The restaurant did not serve either decaffeinated coffee or espresso, which seemed a bit odd.

The restaurant's ambiance is quite appealing, and our waitress, who spoke French and English as well as German, was quite helpful... but the cuisine needs a bit of shoring up.

RISTORANTE "AL BOSCHETTO," , Eschenweg 3, Maintal
This is another example of discovering eateries from sources other than often unreliable guidebooks. This restaurant is not to be found in any of the usual sources of tourist info, but was recommended to us by Doris-Katharina Hessler (see the Seeing Stars section) as a suitable dining spot since her one-star Michelin establishment was closed the first night we stayed at her small hotel. Obviously there is no better restaurant recommendation than that of an accomplished chef.

The simple white-washed walls of the interior are adorned with colorful draperies and works of art. Service is both willing and cordial. The menu is printed in Italian with German subtitles. Prices are extremely reasonable, no entrée over $18.50, and the compact wine list marries well with the regional Italian cuisine.

The "Insalata Boschetto" makes a most suitable starter. Fresh greens are tossed with an excellent vinaigrette. Generous strips of cheese and ham and smattering of black olives are arranged around an epicenter of flaky tuna fish. If you'd prefer something a bit more luxurious to tickle the palate, the gnocchi with Gorgonzola sauce is difficult to beat. The potato dumplings are ethereal and perfectly textured, and the sauce is rich and decadent. There are numerous other salad and pasta dishes available, as well as an appetizing array of pizzas.

Entrées are equally divided among meat, fish, and fowl, and all may be recommended. Since we were dining at Hessler the following evening, however, and anticipated a sumptuous feast, we decided that matters piscatorial might be the better part of valor. My wife chose the grilled monkfish, a moist and meaty filet that is presented with parsley potatoes and beautifully sautéed spinach. I opted for the halibut, which is complemented by a delicate white wine sauce.

Desserts round up the usual suspects: gelato, tiramisù, tartufo, panna cotta, etc. There is also a cheese course available.

If you are staying anywhere in the immediate Frankfurt area, and are looking for a casual Italian respite from German cuisine, Ristorante "Al Boschetto" will provide a most pleasant and satisfying evening at table.

ALTES RASTHAUS, Bassum
You must forgive me, as my recollection as to the precise location of this homey establishment is rather vague. Our German friends were driving, and we arrived here for dinner via several other stops and a rather circuitous route. Be that as it may, if you are anywhere in the vicinity of Bassum, a tiny hamlet just ten miles south of Syke, which is just south of Bremen, the Altes Rasthaus is surely worth a visit.

This is an old way station dating from 1783, where those journeying to the Rhineland or France could rest their horses. The current building, replete with reed roof, was erected in 1823.

The interior is appropriately rustic with simple whitewashed walls and timbered ceilings. There are several comfortable dining rooms, but the one to your immediate right as you enter is much preferred, as it is quite small and intimate.

The cuisine, like the décor, is also on the rustic side, but still demonstrates a definitive note of restraint and sophistication. Most entrées, for example, are enhanced with diminutive portions of vegetables invigorated with a variety of difference sauces. As you may have surmised, in keeping with the ambiance, food is escorted to table by an armada of matronly waitresses.

You might begin with a small herb pancake filled with chicken, cooked ham, mushrooms, and tomatoes served au gratin or, perhaps, baked mushroom caps served on a hot baguette. You will also find an appetizing array of soups to tickle your palate.

Entrées feature a number of interesting possibilities. The lemon sole, for instance, is perfectly sautéed and surrounded by a ring of assorted vegetables and accompanied by a side of excellent roasted potatoes. On the vegetarian side, delicious homemade spätzle finds a perfect complement in a serving of sautéed mushrooms with fresh herbs and a roasted pear garnished with fresh cranberries and melted Camembert cheese.

Another winner here is a very nice plate of veal and pork filets embellished with homemade spätzle, sugar snap peas, and baked asparagus tips with hollandaise. And, for something different, you also might try the "Waidmanns Stolz," venison medallions, filet of rabbit, and boar steak in a light cream sauce with chanterelles.

For dessert, nothing beats the traditional Rote Grütze, stewed berries with heavy cream and vanilla ice cream. Hardly diet food but most satisfying.

GASTHAUS ZUR POST, Dorfstrasse 11, Landbergen
This is a rustic German restaurant/hotel with twenty-five guestrooms and modern amenities. There is a tiny bar replete with crackling fireplace where many of the locals hold court in the early evening, sharing a good brew and good conversation. The diminutive bi-level dining room is dressed in rich walnut and a splashy, colorful selection of modern art.

Several of the appetizers are highly recommended. The potato cakes are beautifully fried, crisp and golden on the outside, giving way to a luscious and velvety interior. These are teamed with thin slices of salty Westphalian ham, a tiny tangle of greens tossed with a light vinaigrette, and a dollop of sour cream. The potato cakes may also be ordered with stewed apples and pumpernickel or with smoked salmon and crème fraîche. In whatever guise they may be appear, they are a simply superlative opening move.

The lambs lettuce surrounded by a smattering of diced tomatoes and tossed with a tangy raspberry vinaigrette is also a first-rate starter . . . as is the "Spicy Salad," shredded prime boiled beef and cucumber combined in a mayonnaise dressing redolent of horseradish.

The entrées weren't quite up to the level of the appetizers, but they still had a great deal to recommend them. The special breast of pheasant reclining on a pungent bed of sauerkraut and topped with fried kale was delightfully moist and tender of countenance. Three rich potato dumplings completed this satisfying scenario.

The duo of salmon and perch-pike was also quite robust, but not nearly so successful. The filets were presented on a bed of mashed potatoes and embellished with a thin layer of sauerkraut. They were then topped with spinach, drowned in an extremely rich cheese sauce, and conveyed to table in a frying pan with a huge wooden handle. If it had not been for the "Saucier's Revenge," all would have been well. The result of this spirited inundation was, needless to say, a good deal less than edifying.

The restaurant offers a compact wine list that is basically German with a few limited selections from France and Italy. The vintage of the evening was a very nice 2001 Blauschiefer Riesling, Trocken, Weingut C. Rumpel & Cie from the Mosel district.

Gasthaus zur Post serves up ample portions of basically well prepared cuisine at extremely reasonable prices in a most convivial atmosphere.

HISTORISCHER WEINKELLER, Koberg 8, Lübeck
Ensconced in an 800-year-old cellar beneath the Holy Ghost Hospital, like its nearby neighbor the Schiffergesellschaft, an ancient seafaring house, this eatery has all the marks of a first-class tourist trap. And the presence of the Kartoffel Keller, a rustic bistro-like affair, and Berger's Steakhouse, all owned by the same family, indicate a concerted effort to capture all possible aspects of the tourist trade.

Be that as it may, dining in this historic Weinkeller is an extremely pleasant experience. You sit beneath a vaulted brick ceiling surrounded by ancient artifacts, candlelight, pink and salmon napery, and Villroy & Boch china. And, for the most part, the cuisine is of good quality and reasonably priced.

We began with the obligatory amuse-bouche, a slice of pickled herring with a mini potato pancake and sour cream. There are very few foods that completely turn me off . . . but pickled herring certainly qualifies.

Appetizers include shrimp fried in garlic olive oil and embellished with chilies, onions, and crusty French bread for dipping. Rather rich but very satisfying. The "Salad of the Season" is comprised of assorted lettuces, slices of cucumber, wedges of tomato, shredded carrots, corn kernels, and shredded radishes. All items are impeccably fresh but nothing spectacular. An accompanying pungent balsamic vinaigrette is standard issue.

Entrées were infinitely more successful. My wife's whole North Sea sole is beautifully fried in butter presented with very nice parsley potatoes. It is not filleted, but easily done so by the diner. The market price, however, turns out to be 30 euro, quite expensive when compared with the other items on the menu. My filet of cod consists of three perfectly sautéed filets set on a seabed of sauerkraut sprinkled with chopped tomatoes. An excellent choice and very reasonably priced at 15.50. Leave it to my wife to order the most expensive offering on the menu.

The wine of the evening was suggested by our helpful and gracious waiter: a bright, lively, and bone dry 1999 Wegelar Forster Ungeheuen Riesling Spätlese.

HISTORISCHER RATSKELLER, Markt 14, Celle
The Celle version is a bit plusher than the typical German ratskeller. Here you discover the typical vaulted ceilings, rustic accoutrements, an array of ancient paintings and prints, and rough-hewn tables with white tablecloths and red cloth napkins that have obviously seen a good many washings in their day. The entertainment is provided by an autographed photo of Dustin Hoffman prominently displayed at the entrance. Evidently Mr. Hoffman paid a call once upon a time and obviously enjoyed the comestibles ingested. Oh, well . . . there's simply no accounting for taste. If this bit of dubious advertisement isn't enough to give one pause, the piped in American elevator music is the definitive tip-off that the establishment clearly caters to the tourist trade and locals that don't know any better. Caveat Emptor!

The food, it should be noted, is not horrible in the sense of causing undue peristaltic distress, but it will certainly occupy the very bottom rung of any knowledgeable diner's gastronomic totem pole.

The highlight of the evening proved to be the wine: a 1998 Randersackerer Pfülben Silvaner Kabinett.

Starters included scallops au gratin embellished with spinach and wedding soup sporting a good heady broth. Both create reason for optimism . . . but disappointment is soon to follow.

The mixed seafood platter - Salmon, mussels, snapper, pike and crawfish - presented with a mixed salad and roasted potatoes would not be considered anything more than mundane by any stretch of the imagination. The fried perch-pike, on the other hand, was a complete disaster. Overcooked beyond all recognition, it was then smothered beneath an innocuous tomato sauce awash with slices of black olive. The only redeeming featuring was the accompanying side of spinach noodles.

Desserts hardly distinguish themselves. The apple strudel with vanilla ice cream and a mountain of canned whipped cream is a soggy mess, and the marzipan terrine (with yet more canned whipped cream) is equally forgettable.

Celle is an adorable little town . . . though it would never be accused of being a gastronomic Mecca. But should you find yourself within its precincts in search of physical sustenance, stick to the Hotel Fürstenhof, which, in addition to the one-star Endtenfang noted above, also domiciles two highly recommendable casual eateries.

The Artful Diner
March 2003

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