Baum Vivant
Note: January 2006: Restaurant now closed.
5102 Baum Boulevard
Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania
(412) 682-2620
Ensconced in a rather tacky neighborhood, Baum Vivant doesn't look like much from the outside. In fact, just driving by, you'd probably be tempted to cross this eatery off your list of possibilities... Once inside, however, your perspective changes dramatically. There's an intimate bar to your left as you enter; and the diminutive dining room, which accommodates a scant thirty-five patrons, is both elegant and sophisticated. But the focus of attention here is clearly on chef/proprietor Toni Pais' cuisine. It is basically Portuguese with a little Northern Italian, French, and Contemporary American thrown in for good measure... and it is utterly incomparable.
You begin with ethereal crostini and an addictive olive tapenade... This is followed by Romano/Swiss/parsley bread and pesto cream cheese. You find these complimentary offerings impossible to resist... but you'll want to exercise a bit of self-control, as the best is yet to come.
Appetizer-wise, nothing beats the incomparable jumbo lump crab cake... By far, the best I have sampled anywhere. Perfectly sautéed and completely free of filler, it is surrounded by a sea of vanilla/lemon sauce, which provides just the right interplay of sweetness and acidity. On the other hand, who can resist the slices of green tomato topped with mozzarella cheese? They are breaded ever so lightly, fried, and finished with a wonderful tomato basil sauce.
With your taste buds now standing at attention, you can't wait to get to the main course. Before you do, however, there are a few surprises in store... A lovely house salad is included with your entrée -- fresh mixed greens, grape tomatoes, lentils, sprouts, and crumbled kasseri cheese tossed with a light pomegranate vinaigrette -- as is a most unusual cleanser for the palate. Definitely not the usual run-of-the-mill sorbet; the intermezzo here consists of a combo of apple cider, apply brandy, and triple sec served in a shot glass. Both innovative and refreshing.
Portuguese cooking majors in matters piscatorial, and the seafood entrées at Baum Vivant acquit themselves with suitable aplomb. The seafood cassoulet -- mussels, lobster tail, white beans, postatoes, and baby carrots in a hearty lobster infused broth -- is simply extraordinary. And the same may be said for the delicate trout filets, which are pillowed on a crawfish phyllo purse and set on a seabed of sautéed sweet onions and finished with a balsamic vinaigrette.
For dessert, be sure to sample the Portuguese Napoleon, a layer of decadent hazelnut praline lovingly embraced by two crispy almond cookies surrounded by a sensuous sea of crème anglaise, or an excellent lemon tart with raspberry coulis.
The Restaurant also sports a very nice wine list, replete with selections from Portugal, France, and the United States.
Baum Vivant is a delightful find in a most unlikely location. If you are ever in the Pittsburgh area, it is well worth seeking out.
Bon Appétit!
The
Artful Diner
July 2002
