New Jersey Restaurant Review
Basil's Legends Grille
Days Inn
Highway 33 East
East Windsor, Mercer County, New Jersey
(609) 443-5565
By The Artful Diner
Special to New Jersey Online
June 28, 1999
Sequestered in the nether regions of a nondescript economy motel, Basil's location alone was enough to give me pause. And, unfortunately, a number of my initial suspicions proved to be correct. Chef/owner Basil Karakatsanis' Mediterranean and eclectic offerings are certainly generous and reasonably priced... subtlety, however, is not his strong suit. Additionally, the noise level in this low-ceilinged, semi-claustrophobic eatery can be formidable; and the youthful service, with the exception of the chef's wife, Renee, is strictly amateur night. While the bustling atmosphere and plenteous portions will undoubtedly appeal to members of the "Clean Plate Club," more sophisticated diners may feel somewhat out of their element here.
You may enter the restaurant from the bowels of the motel itself or from the exterior, which is nicely decked out in a hot pink canopy. The single room seats approximately 45 patrons and sports an open kitchen and a tiny bar. Bear in mind that puffing IS permitted at the bar and, since accommodations are rather compact, if you are at all offended by cigarette smoke, you would do well to bivouac as far away from this area as humanly possible. Decorative embellishments are minimal, but the pink walls and mirrors are nicely complemented by burgundy tablecloths and attractive tapestry-like table covers.
The wine list is practically nonexistent and is recited by your server from memory. Glasses of Vendange Chardonnay, Cabernet and Merlot may be had at $3.25 per. Several bottles of nominal quality from dubious sources are also available. But should you feel in the mood to shell out $25.95, the Santa Margherita Pinot Grigio is always a reliable (if not a terribly exciting) choice.
Among the appetizers, the standout here is clearly the baked stuffed eggplant Basil's style ($7.95). Thin slices of eggplant are gently sauteed, rolled and stuffed with pureed eggplant, chopped tomatoes and herbs, and then crowned with a generous portion of mozzarella and finished in the oven. Absolutely top-notch. The fried calamari with roasted tomato garlic basil sauce ($6.95) is another excellent way to begin your meal, as are the fabulous stuffed potato skins with colby and bacon ($5.95). On the other hand, the highly-touted marinated grilled octopus ($8.95) turned out to be a major disappointment. The flesh of this particular mollusk tends to be on the rubbery side, but it is also known to be tender, succulent and extremely tasty. The chef's rendition--tossed with basil, lettuce and feta cheese--was dry, tough and completely lacking in flavor.
A choice of greenery accompanies your din-din, either Caesar or a Mediterranean salad. The dressing on the former is rather insipid, so I would strongly recommend that you stick with the infinitely superior Mediterranean selection. It is spruced up with a particularly yummy garlic dressing, black olives and, for a $1.00 extra, a rich wedge of feta cheese.
When it comes to his entree presentations, Mr. Karakatsanis is quite cosmopolitan. Since many traditional Greek dishes are quite labor intensive, he features them only occasionally. But when one does put in a guest appearance, be sure to take advantage of your good fortune. His moussaka ($12.95), for instance, is first-rate. Rich bechamel and tomato sauces add just the right touch to the savory (and copious) casserole of ground lamb and tender slices of potato & eggplant.
You will find some old standards on the menu, if that happens to be your predilection: veal steak or chicken parmigiana over linguine ($11.95 & $10.95, respectively), or the ubiquitous linguine with red or white clam sauce ($10.95). My advice, however, would be to opt for what the establishment does best, namely, the kitchen's relatively unadorned contributions. These are simply grilled and presented on a colossal bed of greenery (once again, the Mediterranean version is preferable to the Caesar). The filet mignon ($17.95) and salmon ($12.95) are quite good, the swordfish ($14.95) and shrimp ($14.95) somewhat less so. If you are fond of lamb, however, the baby chops ($16.95) are just the right shade of pink, exquisitely flavorful and clearly represent the chef's finest work.
Mr. Karakatsanis' expertise at the charcoal grill is beyond question... But other areas of his cookery, in my opinion, are somewhat problematic. At a time when Greek chefs are cutting down on their use of olive oil, he appears to be pouring it on, so to speak. And many of his sauces, while initially quite appealing, quickly turn heavy upon the palate, obviating the natural attributes of his otherwise excellently prepared cuisine.
Typical of this kind of gustatory overkill is the special rack of lamb on a bed of balsamic/cranberry sauce and topped with a jalapeno/mint sauce ($19.95). The lamb, as you would expect, is perfectly grilled, but one's taste buds are too paralyzed by this sweet/sour, hot/cool hodgepodge to properly appreciate it. A swordfish/sea scallop combo ($18.95) is another special sabotaged by the sauce; in this case, a lemon/caper concoction that is entirely too viscous. The chicken ($11.95), salmon ($14.95) and swordfish ($16.95) Monte Carlo are sauteed with red peppers, artichoke hearts and mushrooms, then ignominiously smothered in a garlicky lemon/dill sauce. Once again, indelicacy is the culprit in question.
While business here appears to be booming, and Mr. Karakatsanis may be somewhat loath to tamper with success, a few modifications might improve matters appreciably. First, the wine list is in desperate need of some shoring up. And there are a number of very nice, inexpensive Greek vintages available that would go a long way toward alleviating this situation. A restaurant that is serious about its food should also be serious about its wine. Secondly, sauces are entirely too heavy-handed; a slightly lighter touch would not only be good news for diners, but would also allow the chef's considerable talents to shine through his entrees more effectively. And a bit more subtlety in presentation wouldn't hurt either. Finally, desserts ($4.95) consist of tartufo, tiramisu, and those silly sorbets imprisoned in fruit shells. All are made off-campus... and all are eminently forgettable. Needless to say, a few homemade sweet endings would add a nice touch.
Basically, Basil's is a casual, convivial eatery serving up good food at moderate prices. It just needs a little fine-tuning here and there to appeal to a more diverse clientele and to make it an even more satisfying dining experience.
Cuisine: Mediterranean/Eclectic
Hours: Lunch: Weds & Fri, 11:00 a.m. - 3:00 p.m.; Dinner: Mon - Thurs, 4:00 p.m. - 10:00 p.m.; Fri & Sat, 4:00 p.m. - Midnight; CLOSED SUNDAY
Credit Cards: All major
Attire: Casual
Smoking: Permitted at the bar only
Reservations: Recommended
Parking: On site
Alcohol: License
Price: Moderate
Handicapped Accessible: Yes
