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Salt Lake City Restaurants
The Artful Diner writes restaurant reviews for nj.com. To receive e-mail notification when a new review or article is posted, send a note to artfuldiner@verizon.net.

Bambara
Hotel Monaco
202 South Main Street
Salt Lake City, Utah
(801) 363-5454
Cuisine: New American Bistro
September 2003

http://www.monaco-saltlakecity.com

Ensconced in a restored former bank building that has been beautifully metamorphosed into a charming boutique hotel, Bambara is a bit of New York in the heart of Salt Lake City. The restaurant proper is long and narrow, funky and fun, with a large open kitchen in the center and rows of booths and tables at either end.

There's a definitive touch of class here--in the cuisine as well as the ambiance. The new executive chef, Robert Barker, premiered his menu in August, and it is quite a stunner. You start things off with a basket of delicious focaccia and yogurt flatbread companied with a ramekin of red pepper hummus. And if that isn't enough to tempt your taste buds, you will surely find the appetizer of still-warm house-cut potato chips smothered in bleu cheese completely irresistible. Whatever else you may order on a given evening, consider this savory concoction the sine qua non of your visit to Bambara.

Of course, the other preludes are equally outstanding...Two vertical towers of wild mushroom and chèvre (goat's-milk cheese) strudel are encompassed by a sweet onion jam and drizzle of balsamic syrup. Plump and succulent Prince Edward Island mussels swim in a spicy sea of harissa broth (a combo of hot chilies, garlic, cumin, coriander, caraway, and olive oil) awash with zesty morsels of chorizo sausage. Impeccably fresh, buttery-textured leaves of Bibb lettuce are embellished with diced European cucumber, roasted red peppers, kalamata olives, crumbed feta cheese, and tossed with a tangy yogurt-dill dressing.

And entrées don't miss a beat. An epicenter of celery root purée topped with crisp leeks is surrounded by an armada of beautifully pan-seared Maine scallops garnished with a rich Pernod butter sauce. A pristine salmon filet is splashed with an ingratiating lemon aïoli, set on a seabed of vegetable couscous, and encircled with fried capers. Others winners include a sumptuous grilled filet mignon with Matag blue cheese and Applewood smoked bacon gratin potatoes, cornbread stuffed chicken breast with charred tomato veal sauce, and moist and tender grilled pork tenderloin with spinach spaetzle.

ITo conclude your meal, be sure to try the fresh peach tart or artisan cheese course. Bambara also sports an excellent wine list with some very nice selections available by the glass. An exceptional dining experience.

 


The Artful Diner Diner is a freelance food writer who writes restaurant reviews for nj.com. His latest review can be seen on his nj.com weblog at http://blog.nj.com/artful_diner/. An archive of past reviews for nj.com as well as reviews for restaurants around the country and the world can be found on this Web site at http://www.artfuldiner.com/reviews .

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