Anjelica's dining room, simple yet stylish, boasts an exposed brick wall, dark green tablecloths, an equally stylish clientele, and a knowledgeable & personable wait staff. As attractive as these attributes may be, however, executive chef/owner Ray Lena's cuisine is the star of the show. His pastas are impeccable, his meat and chicken dishes will melt in your mouth, and his daily seafood specials are positively transporting. Indeed, this charming BYOB establishment is the perfect venue for casual yet sophisticated dining at the Jersey Shore.
The antipasti here are pure delight, so don't be at all shy about digging right in. And the Mozzarella Fresca ($10.00) would be an excellent way to begin your meal. The fresh mozzarella is accompanied by basil, roasted red peppers, and drizzled with extra virgin olive oil and balsamic vinegar. Clams or mussels ($10.00) are both plump and juicy and come swimming in your choice of white wine or light tomato broth. But the baked little neck clams ($8.00) are equally appealing, as are the Gamberi di Dario ($10.00), shrimp sauteed with white wine, fresh tomatoes, basil & scallions. In addition to those appetizers listed on the regular menu, the chef also offers a number of intriguing specials, so be sure to keep your eyes peeled. The sausage with cannellini beans ($12.00), rustic and robust, is particularly recommended.
No matter how fancy-schmancy salads may be, most diners regard them as just so much gussied up greenery. Be that as it may, Mr. Lena's featured salads of the day are well worth considering; not only are they attractively presented, which you would expect, but also exceptionally tasty. The spinach salad ($11.00) comes embellished with roasted peppers, prosciutto, luscious shavings of Parmesan cheese, and a perfectly balanced balsamic vinaigrette. But if I had to choose a favorite, I would undoubtedly give the nod to the mesclun salad ($12.00) crowned with creamy baked goat cheese and chopped tomatoes. Absolutely first-rate.
You will, of course, find the entrees no less ingratiating. Even the relatively simple dishes are executed with verve and panache. A fave in this regard is the Pollo alla Fiorentina ($18.00), rolled chicken breast stuffed with spinach, prosciutto and mozzarella. The fowl is exceptionally moist, and the various accompaniments in complete gastronomic harmony. Scaloppine of veal is also quite popular and may be prepared alla Milanese ($19.00)--dipped in beaten egg, bread crumbs/Parmesan and then fried in butter--or piccata, marsala or francese ($17.00), according to your predilections on a given evening. As flawless as these presentations may be, they seem to pale in comparison to the incredible Costoletta di Vitello, the grilled double-cut veal chop ($24.00). A truly awesome piece of meat, yet it cuts like butter and is absolutely bursting with flavor. It may also be ordered stuffed with fontina cheese ($28.00) if this is your culinary inclination.
Pastas, as noted above, are exemplary and run the gamut from uncluttered classics to more complex presentations. Typical of the former is the Penna alla Siciliana ($14.00). The al dente penne pasta combined with grilled eggplant, fresh tomatoes and basil is simplicity itself. Ditto the linguine with fresh tomatoes and basil ($11.00) and the spaghetti puttanesca ($13.00), replete with tomatoes, capers, olives and anchovies. If you'd prefer something with a bit more pizzazz, you might try the Fettucine alla Julia ($23.00), fettuccine with sun-dried tomatoes, scallops and shrimp in a delicate white wine sauce, or the spicy Pasta Fra' Diavolo ($21.00), awash with shrimp, scallops and clams.
While all of the aforementioned items are sure to please your palate, by his own admission, Mr. Lena is most enthused about finny fare, particularly his creative daily specials. His pan-seared halibut ($25.00), for example, is indicative of his understated but decidedly innovative approach. This lovely white-fleshed denizen of the deep always needs a bit of embellishment to ignite its rather bland flavors... and a colorful crown of caramelized red onion relish provides just the right spark. Another special, the lemon sole amandine with lemon/butter sauce ($25.00), is equally appealing and arrives in the company of homey mashed potatoes and crunchy green beans.
On the other hand, should you decide to order your sole from the printed menu, it may be prepared francese, meuniere, poached or broiled (all $17.00). The salmon filet also presents a variety of options: poached with lemon, butter and capers ($20.00), poached with tomatoes, shrimp and clams ($22.00), or grilled with Dijon mustard ($22.00). If you prefer crustaceans, the shrimp may be served up scampi style, francese, or sauteed in white wine (all $18.00). But if you're really in the mood to splurge, be sure to check out the fabulous Zuppa di Pesce ($27.00): lobster, shrimp, scallops, flounder, calamari, mussels and clams poached in a light clam and tomato broth over linguine.
Desserts ($5.50), all made in-house, are also guaranteed not to let you down. The chewy, chocolatey brownie garnished with vanilla ice cream is just right for diners who enjoy their sweet endings on the decadent side, the strawberry tart will appeal to those who appreciate somewhat more delicate fare, and the assorted biscotti are perfect for the "dip 'n' sip" crowd. And speaking of sipping, you will also find both the coffee ($1.50) and espresso ($2.50) up to the same high standards as the cuisine.
Couples should plan on spending approximately $100.00 (including tax and tip). Hardly an inexpensive evening, but certainly a most enjoyable one. As you might expect, located just across the way from the Sea Bright public beach, this 3-year-old establishment really bustles in the heat of summer. So be sure to make a reservation... and to BYOB.
Cuisine: Regional Italian
Hours: Summer: Tues - Sun, 5:00 p.m. - 11:00 p.m.; CLOSED MONDAY; Winter: Tues - Thurs, 5:00 p.m. - 10:00 p.m.; Fri & Sat, 5:00 p.m. - 11:00 p.m.; Sun, 2:00 p.m. - 9:00 p.m.; CLOSED MONDAY
Credit Cards: All major
Attire: Casual
Smoking: Permitted in the dining room (but people rarely light up)
Reservations: Essential, especially during the summer months
Parking: Street parking and nearby municipal lot
Alcohol: BYOB
Price: Moderate/Expensive
Handicapped Accessible: Yes
Website:anjelicas.com
