Andre's Restaurant
182 Spring Street
Newton, Sussex County, New Jersey
(973) 300-4192
By The Artful Diner
Special to New Jersey Online
September 25, 2000
Note: The Artful Diner also reviewed Andre's in 2005. Go to the 2005 review.
Yes, everything you've heard is true... Dinner at Andre's is a totally beguiling experience at table. The atmosphere is charmingly homey, co-proprietor Tracey deWaal's welcome is warm and ingratiating, and her husband, Andre, serves up some of the most exciting, palate-pleasing cuisine that I've sampled in many a moon. You don't expect to encounter such sophisticated vittles in the wilds of Sussex County, but Chef deWaal, a 1988 graduate of the CIA, continues to dazzle and delight his ever-growing clientele.
From the moment you first lay eyes on this diminutive establishment, which seats approximately 40 diners, you sense that good things are in store. Simple lace curtains adorn the front window, while white Casablanca fans whirl silently on the black pressed-tin ceiling. One wall is dressed in lime green and sports a series of French posters. Its opposite number is bright yellow and is decked out in weathered window frames and ivy trim. Very nifty. And very, very comfortable.
... As is the food. Mr. deWaal's particular genius, in my estimation, lies in his subtle restraint. His culinary creations are beautifully presented... but not off-puttingly artsy. They exhibit a simple elegance that engages the eye... but doesn't overwhelm it with a self-indulgent "edifice complex." The freshness of his local organic ingredients is beyond reproach; his preparation and execution, for the most part, flawless.
You begin with a gift from the kitchen: a tuna and salmon tartare with a touch of avocado or, perhaps, gazpacho salad with avocado cream. Both recline on a delicate slice of cucumber. Both are tantalizing teasers for the wonderful things yet to come.
Depending upon the state of your appetite, appetizers, entrées and desserts may be ordered a la carte or as a complete five-course feast. (The five-course menu includes soup, appetizer, salad, main course, dessert and American coffee or tea.) Even if ordering a la carte, a lovely salad with an invigorating Dijon mustard vinaigrette is included with your main course... But don't let that deter you from having a spirited go at the select number of utterly superb starters.
Take the chef's unique version of the classic "BLT," for instance. A tower of Perona Farms smoked salmon is filled with morsels of lettuce and tomato and set on a feathery cushion of three Yukon gold blini. Delicate dollops of homemade mayonnaise arranged about the periphery complete this picturesque presentation ($7.50).
The penne pasta tossed with a rich and creamy veal stock is embellished with a captivating commingling of blue cheese, basil, cherry tomatoes and a sprinkling of toasted almonds ($6.50). Pure delight. A bit more exotic -- but no less pleasurable -- is the spicy beef and noodle salad ($7.00). Cool soba noodles are accompanied by melt-in-your-mouth slices of seared beef and finished with a savory peanut sauce and dusting of crumbled peanuts and garlic shoots.
My absolute favorite, however, is the duck liver terrine ($7.50). Generous wedges luxuriate on haricots vert attended by two mini toasts. A tiny crown of finely chopped mango and an artistic smattering of balsamic vinegar add just the right touch of sweet/tart to the festivities. Pure velvet decadence... The best representative of the genre that I have sampled outside the French border.
Entrées continue to demonstrate Chef deWaal's extraordinary skill. Portions are ample but not eye-poppingly prodigious. They are exciting vistas of color, taste and texture, and all are as attractively presented as they are gratifyingly delicious.
A superlative example is the filet of beef tenderloin ($27.50 a la carte/$45.50 five-course). The cut-like-butter filet came precisely as ordered (medium rare) and arrived reclining on a bed of carrots and haricots vert, crowned with a fresh horseradish crust, and embellished with a blue cheese sauce. Blue cheese can be a mighty tough customer and could very easily have overwhelmed all that crossed its path... But this was certainly not the case. The sauce was incredibly delicate and understated, the perfect complement to both the beef and the horseradish. And, as an added incentive (as if you needed one), this dish was accompanied by the most mouthwatering mound of mashed potatoes it has ever been my pleasure to ingest.
The venison ($26.50/$45.00) is another commendable choice. Tender medallions are set in a cradle of mixed grains and granished with a delectable blend of cooked summer fruits blended in a savory gastrique (caramelized sugar deglazed with vinegar, red wine and veal stock). The medallions of lamb loin ($26.00/$44.00), pink and luscious, are spruced up with a wonderful sweet corn hash and white wine sauce.
Mr. deWaal is also quite adept at matters piscatorial. The grouper, for example, has put in several guest appearances. On one occasion, the filet was pan-roasted and served with sesame rice and an exotic ginger/orange vinaigrette ($22.50/$38.50); on another, it was gently sautéed, paired with succulent Prince Edward Island mussels and finished with a spicy mustard sauce ($23.50/$41.50). Both are highly recommended.
But the grilled tuna ($22.50/$40.50) is particularly noteworthy. It swims to table on a beautiful seabed of roasted red bliss potatoes and is surrounded by tiny islands of barbecue sauce. A daring and delectable combination that one cannot resist ordering again and again.
The only disappointment experienced here was the special sautéed red snapper. It was set on a yummy bed of Yukon Gold potaotes, topped with roasted red peppers and surrounded by green olive tapenade. All was it it should have been, all flavors and seasonings in place. The problem was the filet itself. One portion was dry and overcooked, the other the next thing to raw. How this item managed to slip out of the kitchen undetected will probably remain one of those impenetrable culinary mysteries. Perhaps Mr. deWall is only human after all.
Desserts ($6.00) are comfortingly homespun, yet with a decided touch of elegance. A dense, chewy chocolate brownie is topped with homemade vanilla ice cream, the plate awash with tasty symmetrical splash of chocolate/caramel sauce... An intensely flavored mixed berry ice cream is dressed with fresh strawberries and blueberries... A warm individual apple crisp is placed on a perfectly divided bed of tart raspberry sauce and sweet creme anglaise... Ethereal wedges of white chocolate mousse are arranged astride hazelnut pound cake and gently caressed by swirls of Frangelico sauce. Ahhh... the joys of sweet endings.
Andre's menu changes twice monthly... But whatever goodies Mr. deWaal decides to cook up on a given evening, your discriminating palate will surely find itself in an immutable state of gastronomic bliss. So why not pack up your favorite vintage and set off on a culinary pilgrimage to scenic Sussex County? This is one Garden State eatery that is most assuredly worth a journey.
Cuisine: Innovative American with eclectic touches
Hours: Dinner: Weds & Thurs, 5:00 p.m. - 9:00 p.m.; Fri & Sat, 5:00 p.m. - 10:00 p.m.; Special prix-fixe dinners held the first Sunday of the month; CLOSED MONDAY & TUESDAY
Credit Cards: All major
Attire: Casual
Smoking: Smoking is NOT permitted in the restaurant.
Reservations: Recommended, especially on weekends
Parking: Street and nearby municipal lots
Alcohol: BYOB
Price: Moderate/Expensive
Handicapped Accessible: Yes
Web Site: http://www.andresrestaurant.com
