Amea
Restaurant Now Closed
1990 Route 70 East
Cherry Hill, Camden County, New Jersey
(856) 874-0063

By The Artful Diner
Special to New Jersey Online
5/12/03

When Mustapha Rouisslya elected to sell Figs in Cherry Hill, the Garden State sibling of his Philadelphia eatery, Chef Eric Gantz was quick to seize the opportunity to preside over his own restaurant. And the move was both logical and fortuitous... After all, Mr. Gantz had been present from the very outset, had succeeded in garnering a series of rave reviews, and was already well known to the establishment's clientele. Now, as the proprietor, he will undoubtedly discover ever more exciting ways to placate his patrons' discriminating palates with his savory Mediterranean cookery.

Of course, the name has been changed to Amea -- an appellation created by putting the first letter of the names of everyone in his family together. Apart from this adjustment, however, many of the more popular menu items remain in place; at the same time, Mr. Gantz has expanded his ports-of-call to include selections from Spain, Portugal, Greece, Italy, and North Africa.

Although sequestered away in the suburban Village Walk Shopping Center, Amea is decidedly "downtown." The ambiance -- featuring plush banquettes, a bustling open kitchen, and exotic beaded doorway leading to the restroom at the rear -- is both cozy and charismatic. The dining area accommodates approximately forty patrons; there are also an additional six seats at the counter, where, should you be so inclined, you may easily strike up a spirited conversation with the gregarious Mr. Gantz as he goes about the task of preparing your meal.

When it comes to the seating arrangements, I have one word of admonition... There is a diminutive deuce just as you enter the dining room proper. It is, in the euphemistic parlance of knowledgeable restaurateurs, a "dead table." Indeed, it is the most perilous perch in the house, as it sticks out like a sore thumb in the direct line of traffic between the front door and the open kitchen; and its less than ideal location is hardly conducive to either conversation or culinary intimacies. Which means, of course, if you are a couple and look like first-timers, the hostess will inevitably attempt to park you there. On our first visit, in fact, she was quite insistent that this was the only table available... That is, until I said, "Thank you very much," and my wife and I turned to leave... Then she quickly changed her tune. So should this little scenario be reenacted in your presence, don't be afraid to stand your ground by requesting an immediate change of venue.

Apart from this minor solecism, however, the casual service seems quite up to the mark. In fact, shortly after you are seated, a gentleman will appear with a huge woven tray brimming with a scrumptious assortment of breads -- olive, sourdough, rosemary focaccia -- accompanied by a ramekin of thoroughly addictive cumin-infused white bean spread.

Appetizers cut a rather wide swath, and all are quite recommendable. The hummus bitaheni ($5.50) -- accompanied by sliced cucumbers, chopped radishes, olives, feta, and pita triangles -- is appropriately rustic, redolent of garlic and spices, and treats the tongue to a pleasantly potent after burn. And a bountiful bevy of plump steamed mussels ($7.00) generates a bit of heat of its own, courtesy of morsels of chorizo sausage and a pungent white wine broth.

The eggplant and goat cheese lasagna ($7.50) surrounded by a rich, savory sea of marinara is another appealing prelude. The special shrimp and vegetable spring roll on a bed of Asian slaw gently tossed with a light vinaigrette is also an excellent starter. The tiny crustaceans and finely diced vegetables are perfectly prepared and nicely complemented by a drizzle of soy sauce... only the drizzle is more like a flood, rendering the pastry roll into a considerably less than crisp soggy mass. There is nothing soggy about the tariff, however. Weighing in at a hefty $11.00, it seems more than a little pricey.

Entrées continue on with an inviting series of homespun Mediterranean themes. The Greek angel hair ($14.00; with chicken $16.00; with rock shrimp $17.00), for example, is simple and direct and wonderfully satisfying. Al dente angel hair pasta is tossed with kalamata olives, torn spinach, and feta in a light but flavorful broth. You also can't go wrong with the baby penne pasta in a saffron broth awash with chorizo, chicken, mussels, shrimp, and clams ($18.00).

For dedicated vegetarians, the vegetable Napoleon ($13.50) might be just the ticket. Layers of zucchini, yellow squash, portobello mushroom cap, and roasted red pepper are surrounded by pools of red and yellow pepper coulis. The only semi-downer here is that this otherwise delightful -- and delicious -- presentation is built on a foundation of conspicuously crunchy fingerling potatoes. The fingerlings accompanying the salmon ($16.00) are also a bit underdone... But the fish is so perfectly poached, the broth so invigorating, and the artichoke hearts, braised fennel, and roasted tomato such complementary companions, that this minor miscue is easily forgiven.

The only piscatorial offering that completely misses the mark is the pan-seared grouper ($17.50). Set on a bland bed of Tuscan-style white beans, the undercooked and under seasoned filet is equally insipid. A crown of sautéed broccoli rabe adds a touch of much needed color... but absolutely nothing in the flavor department.

On the other hand, if you're feeling particularly carnivorous, the grilled filet mignon ($22.00) topped with a sauté of foie gras, drizzle of truffle demi-glace, and accompaniment of garlic mashed potatoes and grilled asparagus is a decadent's delight... And the same may be said for the lamb tagine ($20.00) spruced up with fig, date, and almond couscous and finished with a honey demi-glace.

Like the breads noted above, desserts ($6.00) are courtesy of Robert Bennett's Miel Patisserie, located just a few doors from the restaurant. For over thirteen years, Mr. Bennett was the pastry chef at Philadelphia's famed Le Bec-Fin, and, needless to say, his creations are gastronomic works of art, as alluring to the eye as they are to the palate. And yet... even while your taste buds are turning cartwheels, you sense that something is amiss. There's a strange incongruity at work here, and you can't quite put your finger on it... And then, gradually, the light begins to dawn...

Yes, the desserts are exquisite. In point of fact, they are too exquisite. Indeed, they are so superb, so elegant, so utterly flawless that they are a complete mismatch for all that has preceded them. Amea's appetizers and entrées are the robust, straightforward dishes of the Mediterranean countryside; the impeccably conceived denouements, classic French. Variety may be the spice of life, but this is one marriage that is surely not made in heaven.

The fault, however, lies not with Mr. Bennett, whose incomparable confections are at their best when espoused to infinitely more elegant cuisine and surroundings or savored mano a mano over a potent jolt of late afternoon espresso. No, it is Mr. Gantz who needs to make just a slight adjustment in his culinary endgame. A simple apple tart or galette, homespun bread or rice pudding, flaky baklava, or similar homemade delicacies would be most appropriate and welcome additions to an already appealingly rustic bill of fare.

Cuisine: Mediterranean
Hours: Lunch: Weds - Sat, 11:30 a.m. - 2:00 p.m.; Dinner: Tues - Sun, 5:00 p.m. - Until; CLOSED MONDAY
Credit Cards: MC, V
Attire: Casual
Smoking: Smoking is not permitted in the restaurant.
Reservations: Recommended on weekends
Parking: Onsite
Alcohol: BYOB
Price: Moderate
Handicapped Accessible: Yes

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