Acacia
3325 West Cary Street
Richmond, Virginia
(804) 354-6060

http://www.acaciarestaurant.com

A graduate of Johnson and Wales University, Chef Dale Reitzer is also an alumnus of such illustrious kitchens as the Ritz-Carlton Buckhead in Atlanta and Richmond's late, great the Frog and the Redneck. In 1998, he struck out on his own, opening the immediately popular Acacia; in 1999, Food & Wine magazine named him one of the "Best New Chefs in America."

Domiciled in an historic building that was once home to a Baptist church and now also hosts Annette Dean Women's Wear, Martin Interiors Extraordinairé, and Karina's Salon, this casually attractive eatery majors in regional vittles with a plethora of innovative touches. Which brings me to my only quarrel with the cuisine: Occasionally it appears to be a bit too innovative for its own good. And even though Chef Reitzer changes his bill of bare nightly, he still feels the need to cook extemporaneously, often substituting accoutrements at will, even though they are not listed on the menu. Not that there is anything wrong with a culinary curveball now and again... unless, of course, the diner happens to have a decided aversion to a specific substitution. In which case, the unexpected revelation may not be terribly pleasant.

Among the starters, I am particularly partial to the chef's take on the omnipresent Caesar salad ($7.25). Indeed, Mr. Reitzer's unique twists and turns breath new life into a presentation that is usually about as exciting as a wilted head of lettuce. He begins by chopping the romaine hearts into delicate bite-size morsels and then gently tossing them with a superlative Caesar dressing. The greenery then finds its ultimate resting place on a rectangular plate and is surrounded by a marinated mozzarella salad, which is the perfect textural counterpoint to the crisp romaine. Arranged about the periphery, red cherry tomato halves provide just the proper splash of contrasting color. A presentation of roasted beets and local goat cheese served with mixed field greens and balsamic vinaigrette ($6.95) may strike one as a touch more pedestrian but certainly no less creative of composition.

When it comes to more avant-garde appetizers, the barbequed lacquered salmon belly ($6.50), apart from one or two "fishy" spots, is quite excellent. Set on a seabed of cucumber relish, it is consummated with a delightfully complementary crème fraîche. You might also consider the scallop ceviche salad on yellow pepper mousse with citrus vinaigrette ($8.50) or the seared foie gras adorned with beluga lentils, poached cherries, and tart and tangy cherry sauce ($12.95).

Entrée-wise, you will find the pan-seared pork loin ($19.95) exceedingly moist and set on a pillow of incredibly rich risotto. Mushroom ragout adds a nice earthy touch, with bok choy standing in for the asparagus that is noted in the menu description. The duck breast ($22.95) is similarly pan seared, its thick, sumptuous slices set over beluga lentils, shiitake mushrooms, corn, and roasted shallots. And, like the aforementioned pork loin, the vegetable-wrapped chicken breast ($15.95) is extremely moist and garnished with roasted red potatoes and asparagus.

Gifts from the sea are also well represented: sautéed grouper with cauliflower purée and ginger lime sauce ($23.95); miso- and orange-glazed Arctic char over spinach purée ($22.95); blackened rockfish with chive sauce ($22.95); pan-roasted scallops on potato gnocchi with Parmesan sauce ($21.95); and sautéed jumbo lump crab cakes on garlic mashed potatoes with bacon sauce ($24.95).

Desserts present such delectable possibilities as lemon Napoleon; maple financier cake with honey ice cream, caramelized bananas, pecan brittle, and caramel sauce; and a decadent chocolate layer cake embellished with chocolate berry sauce and raspberry sorbet. Also featured is a splendid array of single malt scotches, small batch bourbons, and after dinner liqueurs.

If you prefer a more straightforward approach to your cuisine, Acacia's lunch menu highlights a pleasing assortment of soups, sandwiches — including "My Wife's Egg Salad" with lettuce and tomato on sourdough bread ($5.25) — and down-home entrées such as macaroni and cheese, grilled fish of the day, and chicken cutlet.

The Artful Diner
July 2004

The Artful Diner is a freelance food writer who writes restaurant reviews for nj.com. His latest review can be seen on his nj.com weblog at http://blog.nj.com/artful_diner/. An archive of past reviews for New Jersey Online as well as reviews for restaurants around the country and the world can be found on this Web site at http://www.artfuldiner.com/reviews .

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