The Artful Diner - 49 North Main

49 North Main
49 North Main Street
Lambertville, Hunterdon County, New Jersey
(609) 397-5990

(Restaurant Now Closed)

By The Artful Diner
Special to New Jersey Online
April 26, 2004

The first in a two-part series of Lambertville restaurant reviews... Go to Part 2 - Hamilton's Grill Room

The Garden State is home to a number of intriguing "restaurant towns" -- Cape May, Hoboken, Montclair, and Red Bank, just to name a few -- but none is more charming than Lambertville, the tiny hamlet nestled serenely against the banks of the Delaware. And unlike New Hope, its bustling neighbor just across the river, which has long enjoyed the reputation as an eccentric (and, more recently, slightly tacky) artists' enclave, Lambertville has always kept a significantly lower profile. In the past several years, however, it has come alive with a plethoric variety of tasteful boutiques and antique shops, as well as a delectable diversity of exciting and highly recommendable eateries.

49 North Main is, in many respects, typical of the new breed of establishment that has been at the forefront of Lambertville's spirited restaurant renaissance. Four and one-half years old as of this writing, chefs/owners Bob and Lynn Willis, both graduates of the CIA, have sunk deep roots in the community and have managed to survive and prosper by building a fiercely loyal local clientele as well as appealing to the sometimes-fickle weekend tourist trade.

You enter via the side door, traversing a trellised courtyard, which, in warmer weather, is alive with patrons enjoying the pleasures of al fresco dining. But the interior is also quite inviting. Here you discover warm terra-cotta-style walls adorned with the work of local photographers, cathedral ceiling, and crisp white napery. The space is diminutive and cozy, seating approximately thirty two; bright and cheery by day, it turns softly romantic once twilight descends and the lights are turned low. But the clientele is decidedly diverse; so, in addition to couples, you may expect to find families, small groups, and the occasional rambunctious child in residence. Fortunately, even when the place is going full tilt -- and it fills up fast -- the excellent acoustics still permit you to carry on a civilized conversation with your dining partner(s).

Pleasant the surroundings may be... and the prices moderate... and the service ingenuously affable... but it is the well-prepared New American cuisine that is responsible for 49 North Main's enviable rate of recidivism. Altogether casual and comforting, the generous portions resonate with a sophisticated air.

Both members of this culinary team are quite adept behind the stove, of course; however, at the present moment, Mrs. Willis appears to be doing most of the cooking while her husband handles the front of the house. And if you're feeling adventurous, you might want to start things off with her "Chef's Whim" ($8.00), a tempting triptych of whatever treasures may strike her fancy on a given evening. Recently encountered, for example, were two luscious deviled eggs topped with caviar, a diminutive grilled chicken breast stuffed with pear sausage, and thinly pounded beef wrapped around asparagus spears & scallions and embellished with an exotic soy dressing.

But if you're feeling more down-home, the farmers' market soup ($3.00 cup/$5.00 bowl) -- a heady broth awash with chunks of fresh vegetables, macaroni, and enlivened with a dash of basil pesto -- might be just the ticket... ditto a more robust three-bean vegetarian chili served up with just the proper amount of heat, topping of cheddar cheese, and delicious side of cornbread. A cup ($4.00) would surely be the perfect prelude to your meal; and it is also available by the bowl ($9.00) or large crock ($13.00) as a main course.

The mussels ($9.00) are marvelously plump and at the very peak of good health. But they swim to table in a rather funky red curry broth that isn't particularly pleasing to my palate. Instead, try the delectable crab quesadilla ($9.00) filled with sweet crabmeat, potato, spinach, and cheddar cheese or the pear and phyllo-wrapped warm goat cheese salad ($9.00).

The homey entrées continue down the same easygoing path as the appetizers. There are only five listed on the printed menu, and these are supplemented by a select number of daily specials. Heading the regular menu -- quite literally -- is the butternut squash ravioli ($18.00/small order $11.00). Tender pasta pockets are filled with ricotta cheese and then crowned with chunks of butternut squash, roasted red peppers, caramelized onions, a sprinkling of sunflower seeds, and finished with a very nice sage broth. You may also add a number of other interesting accoutrements to the mix -- chicken, goat cheese, chorizo ($2.00 each) or crabmeat ($4.00) -- should you so desire.

The grilled salmon filet and dill crème fraîche ($21.00) make quite a palatable pair, and the chaperones -- potato & cheese quesadilla and mound of garlicky sautéed spinach -- bring a dash of color and a good deal of excitement to the party.

When it comes to meatier matters, if you're a fan of calf's liver, as I am, then I would urge you to try Mrs. Willis's pan-fried version served up with a smothering of onions ($18.00). The membranes were not particularly well trimmed, but I found the liver itself to be exceedingly rich and flavorful. The dish also includes a generous allocation of killer mashed potatoes that are, on the basis of their own not insignificant merit, worth the price of admission.

And if organ meat isn't quite your thing, be advised that these same spectacular spuds are also found in the distinguished company of a juicy, beautifully textured 13-ounce New York sirloin that has been known to put in frequent guest appearances among the daily specials. My one equivocation here is a long-standing criticism of a practice endemic to many restaurants: the recitation of specials without benefit of prices. Since tariffs on the printed menu peak at $21.00 and the succulent sirloin weighs in at a hefty $29.00, the unsuspecting patron who fails to query his/her server with regard to monetary matters is likely to suffer a severe case of sticker shock.

49 North Main also features a number of offerings designated as "Casual Fare." These include the aforementioned vegetable chili, as well as a "Main Street Burger" ($9.00) and sesame chicken sandwich ($9.00). However, the one item that should be considered the sine qua non of your sojourn to this amicable eatery is the incomparable baked macaroni and cheese. Whether procured as the main course with house salad ($12.00) or as a side sans greenery ($6.00), this incredibly cheesy pre-cholesterol-conscious concoction is more deliciously soul satisfying than anything has a right to be. It is comfort food taken to the max, and it is simply not to be missed.

Desserts ($6.00), all made in-house, are equally agreeable... Try the chocolate walnut brownie with rich chocolate sauce and your choice of ice creams or, when it is available, the scrumptious pineapple upside-down cake. If I had my druthers, though, I'd go for the slices of fresh fruit (pineapple, pears, and strawberries during our most recent visit) accompanied by fresh whipped cream and almond biscotti. The biscotti, of course, is perfect for dunking... but do so in a potent cup of coffee or decaf ($2.00), as the espresso ($3.00) is rather weak and watery.

When you're in the mood for some good down-home cooking -- casual fare with a sophisticated flair -- settle in comfortably at 49 North Main, and I guarantee that Bob and Lynn Willis's cozy cuisine will warm your heart as well as assuage your appetite.

Cuisine: Casual American fare with a sophisticated flair
Hours: Lunch: Thurs - Sat, 12:00 noon - 2:30 p.m.; Dinner: Weds & Thurs, 5:00 p.m. - 9:00 p.m.; Fri & Sat, 5:00 p.m. - 9:30 p.m.; Sun, 4:00 p.m. - 8:00 p.m.
Credit Cards: AX, MC, V
Attire: Casual
Smoking: Smoking is not permitted in the restaurant.
Reservations: Recommended
Parking: Street parking
Alcohol: BYOB
Price: Moderate
Handicapped Accessible: Yes
Website:travel.yahoo.com/p-travelguide-5965680-49_north_main_restaurant_lambertville-i